Saturday, February 20, 2016

NYFW Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear

Just like that Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear comes to a close. My NYFW post from the SS16 season is my most popular post to date, so I figured I would continue to re-cap some of my favorite collections until I have the pleasure of complaining about #NYFWProblems. I wouldn't call myself a fashion expert, but I look at fashion collections in the same way I do tattoos: I can admire them based on the message/theme, the look, or a combination of the two.

Like my last post, I grouped certain collections together. A few of them shared similar influences, but were executed in different ways. The themes I created for this season are: Renegades, (New) Americana, Movie Muse, and Psychedelic.

I attempted to keep my commentary concise and entertaining. Keep on reading and let me know how I did.

Renegades: Alexander Wang, Fenty x PUMA, and VFiles

The creative directors behind these lines found inspiration in different subcultures while also challenging what possesses us to give clothing specific genders. Alexander Wang tapped into the stoner and skate cultures of New York City. Fenty x PUMA expressed just what makes Bad Gal RiRi so bad by focusing on the current mainstream obsessions with sneaker heads and athleisure wear, specifically boxing. The VFiles show featured lines from four different designers/duos, each of them focusing on aspects of internet culture. 
Alexander Wang Fall 2016 RTW
Last season Alexander Wang debuted his last show as creative director of Balenciaga and also celebrated the 10th anniversary of his namesake label, all of which begged the question "What will he do this year?" This collection's take on both stoner and skater culture felt like Wang's way of rebelling against the ultra-feminine legacy of Balenciaga. Judging by Alex’s personal Instagram account, it’s clear that he has first-hand experience with both these lifestyles. Even if the number 420 doesn’t resonate with you, Wang always delivers impeccable hardware all around. 

Fenty x PUMA Fall 2016 RTW
It's clear that Rihanna is a force in music and in fashion. She dropped her album "Anti" and it went platnium in a week. Her Fenty x PUMA creeper style sneakers have been sold out everywhere for months. With celebrity collaborations, it’s hard to tell if they are actively creating alongside a brand or simply picking and choosing the best sketches. Regardless, Fenty x PUMA taps into the hip-hop influence RiRi has been embracing in her music since "Good Girl Gone Bad." Sneaker heads seem to be synonymous with hip-hop and both are androcentric. Rihanna highlights female power by creating luxe thigh-high boxing boots, fur sweatshirts, and reminding us that attitude is empowering.

VFiles Fall 2016 RTW
Four different designers/duos presented looks with different aesthetics at VFiles. The four looks, from left to right, are by: Sophie Hardeman, Kim Shui, and Ottolinger. Though the vibes were changing constantly, all the collections challenged the gender binaries we associate with clothing and embraced androgyny. The VFiles brand also questions the process of creating and finding concepts for clothes. They believe the Internet allows for so much conversation and collaboration that it's time fashion taps into it. I like how VFiles finds these artists and influencers and works with them, as opposed to so many shops that see the Internet as a way to steal artwork. 

(New) Americana: Jeremy Scott, Saint Laurent, and Tommy Hilfiger

These collections took cues from American life with each one focusing on a different era. Jeremy Scott mocks us all for our consumerist obsession with the brands and aesthetics that shaped past eras.  Saint Laurent's creative director, Hedi Slimane, reminds us all that Los Angeles holds more inspiration for rock n' roll than it does for surfer culture. Tommy Hilfiger incorporated naval styles from the 40s into modern times by combining lavish embroidery and current silhouettes.

Jeremy Scott Fall 2016 RTW
Houston, we have a cowboys are taking over. Jeremy Scott's collection combines two seemingly unrelated topics under the pretense that the greatest thing about America was our optimism about the future. He satirizes America's obsession with the Space Race and the "typical" story of a young kid leaving middle America for the Big City to pursue their dreams. If he can convince me that a pair of studded cowboy boots should be considered a closet staple, what can't he do? He'll make America great again. #JeremyScott2016

Saint Lauren Fall 2016 RTW (Women's Pt. 1)
The day before the official start of NYFW, Saint Laurent hosted the Men's Fall 2016 show and part one of the Women's collection at the Hollywood Palladium here in Los Angeles. The teaser videos for this collection features bands like J.D. King and Cherry Glazerr showing that rock n' roll and glam rock in LA  are becoming their own breeds. Like the work of the music artists, his work builds on one another which explains why this collection looks familiar. The models at Saint Laurent showed classic fall staples like cheetah-prints and bow-tie blouses. Cropped jackets and fitted pencil skirts got the glam rock treatment too.
Saint Laurent Pre-fall 2016
  I featured my favorite looks from the men's collection because their outerwear and gold boots are gorgeous. (Look at that embroidered space blazer!) I love Saint Laurent because it's the kind of look I wish I could wear along with the kind of style my dream frontman-type would have.

Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2016 RTW
Tommy Hilfiger is for the modern day Rose. The combination of nautical emblems and golden brocades with feminine prints and revealing sheer pieces scream romance. Pieces like the bomber jacket with the sequins collar remind us that clothing that isn't form-fitting are not inherently masculine. To translate this trend into your daily life, embrace Brenton stripes and silk pajamas. Now, paint me like one of your Tommy girls.

 Movie Muse: Coach 1941, Marc Jacobs, and Opening Ceremony

We often look to leading characters for outfit inspiration. As these movies become an icon in their own right, these characters are referenced more and become icons. These collections remind us that actors bring characters to life, but there are so many other people involved in how things are executed on screen. (Read: all those categories during the Oscars that you use as scheduled bathroom breaks.) Coach 1971's vision is grounded in the outfits featured in teenage-cenetered cult classics. Marc Jacobs immediately gave me Tim Burton vibes. Opening Ceremony gave us an idea of how much fashion will have changed (or not) by the time we have real hover boards.

Coach 1941 Fall 2016 RTW

Check all your negative presumptions of Coach at the door. 1941, the year Coach was founded, was added in the company's effort to rebrand itself. The focus has switched from the cheap monogram to creating structured leather pieces. Cult films and the inherent nostalgia of it all was the main spark for the collection. Performances by Rob Lowe in Youngblood (the outerwear) and Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver (prints and colors) are cited by name, but I think Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette had some leverage in the shoe department. I'm not entirely sure that a trio consisting of a Canadian hockey player, 12-year-old prostitute, and teen queen are the most relatable characters but it worked for Coach. What's even stranger than the inspiration behind the collection is that soon we will all proudly say, "Oh, this? It's Coach."
Marc Jacobs Fall 2016 RTW
Models are always criticized for the unrealistic measurements and proportions they maintain. The art form that receives more flack from this argument is animation, more specifically the style of Tim Burton. (Jack Skellington was definitely a contributing factor to the thigh gap obsession a few years ago.) Marc Jacobs played around with the dimensions of his coats and skirts and used graphic liner/charcoal eye shadow to replicate the bony legs and bulging eyes that are synonymous with Burton's work. The goth girl aesthetic of the collection (leather jackets, crocheted doily collars, plaid, voodoo-related prints, studded straps, etc) stemmed from the dark sweethearts of the 90s: Lydia from Beetlejuice and Christina Ricci.
Opening Ceremony Fall 2016 RTW
This season has been indulging me in my love for utopian sci-fi films. Saint Laurent and Jeremy Scott has us seeing stars and now Opening Ceremony exposed us to life on Earth. OC worked with Syd Mead, the artist specialized in neofuturistic landscapes like Blade Runner's cityscape and Tron's digiscape. His work is screened onto shirts and knitted in a few pieces of the collection. Angular shoulder pads, mock turtlenecks, and holographic-like fabrics like metallics and high-shine velvet elevate these outfits to the next century. 

 Structure: Calvin Klein Collection and Proenza Schouler

These two collections placed emphasis on structure and silhouette. Even in the era of athleisure and oversized-everything, Calvin Klein Collection and Proenza Schouler remind us that clothing doesn't always conform to the shape of the body. Sometimes clothing can have structure of their own.  
Proenza Schouler Fall 2016 RTW
Proenza Schouler's focus on clean lines, crisp stitching, and ribbed detailing are seen throughout the collection. The lace up trend is similar to the one seen in Rihanna's line and Derek Lam from last season. The color and the cut of the bandage dress reminds me of Rey from the Star Wars franchise. Although these looks will be available for purchase soon, Episode VIII can't come soon enough.

Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 RTW
Calvin Klein Collection proves that every season doesn't need to be a reinvention of the wheel. The shoes and structure of the clothing is extremely similar to the Spring 2016 collection. The masculine cut of the suits with their unfinished hems bring the focus back to the art of manufacturing clothing in a time where fast fashion rules. The lynx prints and intermix of crystals are reminiscent of autumnal weather.

Psychedelic: Anna Sui and Monique Lhuiller

These two collections captured just how vibrant fashion was in the 60s. Anna Sui focused on the embroidery and rich colors of the art of the era. Monique Lhuiller proves that the best way to dress like the archetypal 60s gal is to layer on different fabrics.
Anna Sui Fall 2016 RTW
Anna Sui knows that  modern girls just want to be mod girls. I wish I could wear flare pants and embroidered two-pieces without looking like an exotic rug. 
Monica Lhuillier Fall 2016 RTW
Whenever I go out, my outfit choices are extremely limiting because I never know what constitutes as "going out" clothes. Monica Lhuillier inspired me to find different ways to spice up evening wear by channeling the likes of Edie Sedgwick.  The easiest way is to invest in lace-up or Mary Jane heels and pair them with embellished socks or metallic tights. (This will easily solve my problem of wearing booties 24/7.) The second is to find embroidered jackets or tops to wear with pieces you already have. This collection serves as a reminder that going out should be the time to stand out in a's always more fun that way anyway.

 The credit for all the runway photos goes to Vogue Runway.

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