Saturday, September 19, 2015

NYFW SS16 Favorites

Leandra Medine aka Man Repeller at NYFW back when it was at Lincoln Center Photo credit: Netrobe Blog

It's no secret that nostalgia has infected fashion week. A couple seasons ago the nostalgia binge started bringing back the 90's and now we're all about the vibes of the 60's and 70's. I don't blame these designer houses for going back in time. I'm sure it's hard to find inspiration in the modern muse when most of us would rather be wearing some variation of Lululemon leggings than leather pants.

I tried to make sense of the madness that is NYFW, or more specifically, the madness that are my social media feeds during this time of the year. I separated my favorite shows into three categories: Art Hoe, Penny Lane and Bedroom Wear.  I'm going to warn you, this is a lengthy post. Get comfy.

Art Hoes: Nicole Miler, Marc Jacobs and Jeremy Scott

If any of you have been on tumblr as long or as frequently as I have, you will know that "Art Hoe" is not an insult. Art Hoe is the perfect way to describe someone who just loves art/prides themselves on being cultured. Although this aesthetic comes in different variations, some things you can find on an Art Hoe's feed are: "candid" photos of themselves next to a Warhol or Lichtenstein, posts critiquing the directing style of the likes of Fincher and Tarantino, or wearing apparel with Drake's face or lyrics plastered all over. The Art Hoe comes in many forms.
Nicole Miller Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Nicole Miller's graffiti and Pollock-esque splatter prints, painter overalls and brick patterned dresses will please the modern museum buffs and Banksy enthusiasts.

Marc Jacobs Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Marc Jacobs's collection is for all you film junkies out there. The silkscreens and red/blue color scheme is reminiscent of ye ol 3D glasses. Instead of channeling movie starlettes as inspiration, why not wear them instead?
Jeremy Scott Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Picture Credit: Vogue Runway
Jeremy Scott's take on our love for everything plastic and pretty remind us of a time when people weren't afraid to wear color. Get ready to eat out of his color-coated hands. Remember: neon orange lipstick and fishnets are your friends.

Penny Lane: See by Chloé, Alice + Olivia and Rebecca Minkoff

First of all, yes I will keep making as many references to Penny Lane and Almost Famous as I can from now on. Second, these Spring 2016 collections are the epitome of ready-to-wear. People are already wearing them.  Smaller boutique brands like For Love and Lemons can rest easy now that designer houses, like Alice + Olivia,  have given the seal of approval to the whole "desert goddess just driving up the coast in my convertible with a cactus by my side" vibe. When will this trend end? Who knows but embrace the new monochrome of washed out blues, blush and cream. Invest in that pair of lace-up flats. Or anything that comes in suede. Collect as many embellished tops and chiffon anything. The plus side is that you can wear most of those pieces transitioning into this fall as well as next spring to Coachella. Rebecca Minkoff also brought back more rock n roll elements which serve as a easily digestable version of Saint Laurent's current stock.
See by Chloé Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Airy fabrics and shades of orange and blues can be seen in See by Chloé's collection. Thick leather-strap sandals make an appearance which means I have another year of wearing Birkenstocks ahead of me. Score.
Alice + Olivia Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Alice + Olivia here reminding you to invest in lace-up heels ASAP.  The Southwestern desert influence is strong in this one. If ultra-feminine dresses aren't your style, opt for an embroidered bomber jacket or in-your-face matching set.

Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Rebecca Minkoff's collection was inspired by English singer/actress Marianne Faithfull. The collection embraced the Mod, the boho and the rocker styles. This collection is perfect for monochrome junkies who would rather die before wearing anything in the color "rust."

Bedroom Wear: Calvin Klein, Givenchy, Jill Stuart

Apparently the creative director at Calvin Klein has yet to completely let go of their 90s nostalgia (read: silk slip dresses). But who can blame him? Everyone's partying like its 1992 by showing off their cotton Calvins. (Thankfully, we're done with tattoo chokers.) Givenchy and Jill Stuart have also been embracing the silk obsession. Calvin Klein has revamped the silk slip by adding more structure to the dress itself. Givenchy encourages you to throw on your lover's suit jacket over your lacy lingerie the morning after a wild night. Jill Stuart is begging you to ditch your old going out uniform and live a little in a pair of silk bell-bottoms.
Calvin Klein Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Instead of elevating a look with a pair of heels, Calvin Klein suggests throwing on a duster vest or going all out with a  sequined top. Unisex shoes like sneakers and brogues are being embraced everywhere,  which makes me and my huge feet ecstatic. Who knew that slip dresses and slip-on sneakers would be such a winning combo? 

Givenchy Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
There's more you can steal from a suit besides the coat and the pants. The deconstructed elements of a tuxedo, like the bib detailing and the vest, are best worn as layering pieces. Just remember to get the bottoms of your flowing trousers hemmed unless you want to pull a Candice.

Jill Stuart Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Jill Stuart's collection totally disregards the monochrome color palette of Calvin Klein and Givenchy. It's time we all stopped dressing in black just because there are infinite quotes on tumblr and Pinterest about how 'sophisticated' the color black is. Fun nighttime wear is no longer restricted to themed parties or sleepovers anymore.

Brands that cannot be categorized:

Alexander Wang Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
Alexander Wang is one of my favorite designers. This is because I discovered him just as I was leaving the awkward phase of dressing and slowly discovering my own style. This year his show was a bit of a spectacle and was madness within itself. It was eclectic. Fabric on fabric on fabric. Now I'm inspired to wear fishnets under destroyed denim, find some metallic tops and dig up my old army green parka. While I'm at it, I should tell my high school self to keep her chain necklaces because they're actually in style now.

Karen Walker Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

I am in awe of the Karen Walker show. Inspired by an obscure British sci-fi series, the collection can be described as "glamorous astronaut." The metallic gold pieces + pastel pointed brogues + acid denim = love. She's also bringing back the grid print in monochrome trousers and dresses. If the NASA astronaut suits looked something like this and I got over my fear of deep space, I would travel the galaxy in a heartbeat.
Derek Lam Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

Shoutout to Derek Lam for reminding us that hoping on trends doesn't mean you have to throw out your entire wardrobe. He effortlessly mixed boho elements, like bell sleeves, lace embroidery, pom poms and suede without overhauling the clean silhouettes he's known for. The sportswear element can be seen in details like using thick, flat laces for the lace-up detailing or adding bell sleeves to "varsity" sweaters. My only complaint is that he doesn't make shoes in my size.
Zimmermann Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

Zimmermann's collection made me fall in love with lace and stripes all over again. I don't know where I would ever wear their "Victorian Chic" clothing but I'd wear it all, even if it was just to admire myself in the mirror or on the off-chance I was ever invited to afternoon tea.
Suno Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Photo Credit: Vogue Runway

Finally, thank you Suno and J.Crew for reassuring me that the gingham culottes I bought this summer are indeed a steal, not a mistake.

No comments:

Post a Comment